Greetings all,
We spent all weekend and yesterday checking out Melbourne, Palm Bay, Cocoa Beach, New Smyrna Beach, Flagler Beach, Ormond Beach and Fernandina Beach (aka Amelia Island). As many of you know, Florida is a LONG state. We drove about 600 miles in the last two days alone.
An overall comment about the East coast of Florida vs the West coast….the East coast is much older and not nearly as nice, at least not up in this area. Miami and Ft. Lauderdale are obviously the exceptions. Many of the towns look almost untouched since the 50’s and 60’s. So different from the other coast and it really caught us by surprise. We’ve since found out from some locals that when the space program shut down in 2011, the area really got hurt. Boy….that’s an understatement. Almost every aerospace-related facility we passed was empty. After touring the area, it’s really obvious why the Sarasota/St. Pete/Tampa areas are getting so popular. The people who used to go to the East coast of Florida from the Carolinas (and North), are by and large now heading for the West coast.
The Melbourne area in particular was a big disappointment, as It had been recommended to us by more than a few people. We found it run down, dirty and….well….old. We drove around for probably 30-45 minutes trying to see if we had missed something. Nope, we didn’t. It was instantly obvious that there was no new money moving into the town or the county for that matter. We moved on to Ormond Beach….ditto. Lots of old condos and homes from the 60’s. Cocoa Beach….deja vu all over again….except for the ultimate in tourist stops….Ron Jon Surf Shop. This guy has bumper stickers on cars all over the world and we’ve spotted many in our Western travels.
Next on the list was Flagler Beach….a small seaside town North of Daytona. Poor Flagler Beach. Apparently the last big East coast storm (the name escapes me) not only washed away their entire beach, but also A1A….the main road that runs through town. The entire town is now a giant detour, around the area where road crews are rebuilding A1A and putting giant boulders on the beach side of the road to prevent further erosion (good luck with that). The town is in really bad shape, with many businesses closed down. We were there on a sunny Sunday afternoon and found the town almost empty.
New Smyrna Beach….where we are currently renting a villa on the river…was next. NSB, as the locals call it, is an area that nearly made our cut. It’s a town with a cute historic area and lots of condos and homes overlooking the Indian River…but very few actual neighborhoods to choose from once you get away from the river. Many of the existing neighborhoods are older and the houses are going to require a ton of work…translation…a lot of money to fix up. Been there and done that…and don’t want to do it again. Don’t get me wrong….we love fixing up homes, but after we finished our fourth or fifth one, it was time to move on.
The area around NSB, is ripe for development, but it’s just “not quite there” yet. There are some new car dealers outside of town and some major new apartments being built, but for access to the brand name stores, you have to drive about 10 miles to Port Orange. It’s hard to put into words, but easy to see and recognize. It’s obvious that the big developers have gone North to the Daytona area (Jimmy Buffet has a new planned unit development there for example). Almost everything outside of the historic town area is older and hasn’t been updated in a long time, save a few new chain stores. Claudia judges a lot of the towns we explore by the quality of the school buildings. A town with money has new schools, or at least newer schools. On one of the roads into town, we spotted an elementary school. So sad….some of the portable classroom buildings looked to be 50 years old. We thought they were abandoned, but they weren’t. So we’ll still consider it, but meanwhile we’re going to keep looking.
Yesterday, we headed North to Fernandina Beach/Amelia Island. Finally….success! What a shocker. The historic downtown area is a whopping 50 blocks square. Beautiful old buildings from the late 1800’s, and early 1900’s are literally everywhere. The town was home to wealthy shipping captains and merchants in the late 1800’s and the town, to its’ credit, left them all. Quaint restaurants and shops are literally everywhere. I hate to use the term “Disney Town”, but that’s pretty much what it is. Much of the downtown looks like a movie set. Street after street after street of beautiful Victorian homes. This was more like it! We headed to the beach and found another success. It’s miles long and has public beach access areas everywhere. Many areas even allow you to drive onto and park on the beach. Nice. And even better….the beaches are dog friendly.
We then checked out the neighborhoods both on the island and off the island and found a lot of developments….many built within the last ten years and many brand new. At long last, we think we may have found a town that checks off a lot of the criteria on our list of “must have’s”. The only down side is that the real estate market there is very tight….very few properties are for sale and even fewer for rent. So now, we wait and see what turns up. I suspect we’ll be making the 145 mile drive a lot in the next couple weeks.
Last, but not least….the oldest bar in Florida…The Palace Saloon. We found this place totally by accident, while walking Tuck down the street. A total stranger stopped us ( I guess we looked lost) and asked if we’d been inside the bar. Nope we said, just got here. He informed us that it was the oldest continuously run bar in Florida (started in 1903 by Louis Hirth and the bar was designed and installed by Adolph Busch - yep the founder of Anheuser Busch). Not too shabby. Really a cool place with an absolutely beautiful walnut and mahogany bar from 1903. The stranger also informed us that the resident bartender was also the town mayor. You have to smile at that…who better to spread the good cheer of the town than the mayor tending bar? We’ll be back, as Tuck wasn’t allowed inside.
That’s about it for now. Today is a rest day…no driving. Research will be done online….we now have two computers sitting on the dining room table in our villa.
Thanks for reading!
Cheers!
Wayne, Claudia & Tuck